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Author: * Fedelm Cruithni -
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Date: Aug 3, 2008 - 20:52
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For All The Tea In Glasgow

It may come as a surpise to all but the innovative Glaswegian that the first tea room was opened in Glasgow, not China, Japan or England. Tea dealer and hotelier Stuart Cranston developed a passion for tea in the tasting room of Twining & Co. of London. He started his career in retail in 1871 by opening the first Glasgow tea room and ingeniously combining the various trades and talents of his family background. His father's cousin Robert pioneered the first Temperance Hotel, and his father George was a baker and pastry maker who then started a succession of prestigious hotels in George Square.
Stuart's mission to make Cranston tea a household name woke in him a desire to educate his customers in the seriousness of drinking quality tea. To this purpose, he kept a boiling kettle at hand and offered sample cups. In 1875, he moved to a more central location, set up tables, supplied baked goods and began charging for tastings. And that's the story of how the first Glasgow tea room was born.
Thomas Bishop, a contemporary of Stuart Cranston, also ventured into the tea trade in 1871. Spurred by his wild assertion that Scottish water was unsuitable for the tea blends distributed by London firms, he developed his own firm, Cooper & Co., into the Pure Foods grocery empire, which led to the opening of a tea room. With typical Glaswegian inventiveness, Bishop ran a field telegraph from his Howard Street, Great Western Road and Sauchiehall Street shops. He also installed electric lighting, which naturally caused an enormous sensation.

This was also the year Thomas Lipton, son of an Ulster immigrant, opened a tea shop in Glasgow, at 101 Stobcross Street. By the Great War, young Lipton had created a national tea empire and revolutionised the grocery business. After becoming a millionaire, he purchased an estate in Ceylon in 1890 and blended the famous tea which bears his name. He then took the industry by storm with lower prices, brilliant advertising and the catchy motto, "direct from the tea garden to the tea pot."
In 1894, Lipton moved his headquarters to London, where he became a national figure due to his generosity and his friendship with Edward VII. When he died, he left his estate to his beloved Glasgow to help the city's poor.
In the early 1800s, tea was still the preserve of the privileged few, a precious commodity locked away in a cabinet and doled out a leaf at a time by the mistress of the house. Glasgow's suburban tea gardens became fashionable resorts with their plants and flowers, exotic animals, tea, whisky and ale. It was not until the boom in the 1880s that food became more affordable. Before the war, Scottish consumption of sweets — jams, biscuits and confectionary — was three times that of England.
The Notorious Scottish sweet-tooth played a major role in the development of the Tea Room. As tea became more affordable, and therefore more popular, tea rooms flourished in Scotland. Tea was also a powerful weapon in the Temperance Movement against the evils of alcohol, especially at a time when alcohol abuse and the industrial revolution went hand-in-hand. Glasgow was at this time known as the "Workshop of the World" and as Britain's most whisky-sodden city.
The soothing repose of the Tea Room became a welcome refuge from the battles raging between temperance and alcohol. Here one could drink tea, coffee, or chocolate, gorge on sweets and play endless games of billiards while inhaling tobacco fumes. Although condemned by the most extremely temperate as "tea-sodden" wretches that are worse than drunkards" who "inhale the smoke of cheap cigarettes," it was not easy for Glaswegians to envision the tea rooms as dens of vice, especially when so many could recall their hard-drinking youth.
The Glasgow tea rooms bravely weathered the hard times through two world wars, the Industrial Revolution, the Great Depression, slum, poverty, working class unrest and the notorious razor gangs, remaining essentially unchanged, but for ownership and decor. The middle class still had money to spend and more leisure time. Visitors were overwhelmed by the opulence of the tea rooms, where tea time was equivalent to dinner time anywhere else.
Even during Word War II, a visiting journalist was shocked by the "garganuan ovens, specklessly clean, in whose shelves large fowls and plump turkeys lie sizzling and richly browning. Here the flanks of surloins, of pies decked with the luscious stars and medallions of flaky paste, change colour with a becoming slowness."
Nowhere else in the world were the tea rooms so spectacular, even down to the decor: "There is, in truth, a golden bloom over everything, a lovely sheen as though the midsummer sun were shining, which turns your thoughts from the chilly world without and fills you with a new life."
These magificent tea rooms are by and large a thing of the past. Wine bars became all the rage and replaced quaint old tea rooms with modern kitsch. Last I heard, though, you could still find a tea room or two in the same old locations on Union and Sauchiehall Streets, such as the renowned Willow Tea Rooms, located at 217 Sauchiehall Street (Sauchiehall means Willow in Scots), designed by the internationally renowned Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Mackintosh met Catherine (Kate) Cranston, Stuart's younger sister, in his early career, in 1896. Kate commissioned him to design a unique series of tea rooms she had conceived. She was a strong believer in temperance and envisioned venues where people could relax and enjoy non-alcoholic beverages in a variety of different "art rooms" within the same building.
The Room de Luxe was the most extravagant of Mackintosh's creations, with its intimate and rich decor. The room was described at the time as "a fantasy for afternoon tea."
Kate Cranston sold her businesses following the death of her husband in 1917 and the Willow Tea Rooms became part of Daly's department store. Though her tea rooms have seen a series of owners throughout the years, they have miraculously survived. They were refurbished and reopened in 1883, and expanded into new tea rooms at 97 Buchanan Street, next door to her original location. Today guests can again experience the glory days of the Glaswegian Tea Room in the Willow's recreations based on Mackintosh's White Dining Room and Chinese Room.
And I have it from a good friend who frequents the Willow Tea Rooms that they still serve baked goods with sweet jam and the perfect cup of tea brewed from blends best suited for Scottish water.
Sources
Repplier, Agnes. To Think of Tea! Houghton Mifflin: Boston
(1931).
Sir Thomas Lipton
Willow Tea Rooms
Further online reading:
The Glasgow Story - Kate Cranston by Irene Maver
Catherine Cranston
Charles Rennie MacIntosh
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