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Kamakura's District of
Wakamiya Oji Dori
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Yoritomo
Welcome travellers. I am Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder and first shogun of Kamakura. Please sit and share a cup of tea with me while I tell you of Wakamiya Oji Dori, the main street of our fair city. Also the longest street, it stretches for an entire mile, all the way from the Hachimangu shrine to the sea. Well, technically, it starts at Yuigahama beach.

Why did I build such a long street? To pray for a son! In the Kamakura era, only the eldest male heir could become shogun. I was 36 years old at the time and had two daughters, but no son. When I learned that my wife, Masako, was pregnant again, I wanted to ensure that she would give birth to a baby boy who would one day walk in his father's footsteps. I ordered Hojo Tokimasa and other retainers to construct an impressively broad, straight avenue, like Suzaku-oji in Heiankyo and Kyoto's main boulevard Miyako Oji, and dedicated it to Hachiman, the tutelary deity of the Minamoto clan. My prayers were answered that same year and the street was named Wakamiya Oji Dori, or Young Prince Avenue.

Hmmm…since all roads lead to shrines in Kamakura and Wakamiya Oji Dori is no exception, I may as well tell you about the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. More tea?

My first act after our victory over the Taira clan in 1180 was to have the Shinto shrine of Hachiman, founded by my great-great-grandfather Minamoto no Yoriyoshi in 1063, enlarged and moved to its current site. When the shrine burned down in 1191, I rebuilt it on a graded hillside so that it now has upper and lower buildings and a magnificent view of Kamakura along Wakamiya Oji from the main hall at the top of the stairs. Back in my day, in the Kamakura era, Hachimangu was embraced as the guardian deity of samurai warriors and played a central role in Japanese Buddhism. In fact, joint Shinto and Buddhist ceremonies were held here until the two practices were separated in the Meiji era (1868 - 1912).

cherry blossoms
On the walk to the shrine, you pass through three sacred gateways called torii. Starting at the beach, the gateways are numbered first, second, and third. The first is called Ichi no Torii. The scenic stretch between the second, Ni no Torii, and third, San no Torii, is called Dankazura. "Dan" means "a raised section," while "kazura,” short for "kazurasishi," means (square) stones, which line the upper outer edge of the raised foundation to prevent it from crumbling. Thus, Dankazura is a raised pathway rimmed with square stones on a broader street. Today, the walkpath is roughly 50 centimeters high, 3 meters wide and 460 meters long and is lined on both sides with azaleas and 310 cherry trees, which were planted in 1918 and form an archway of cherry blossoms in early April. The history of Dankazura is written on stone tablet that stands by Ni no Torii.

Wakamiya Oji Dori is also of archaeological interest. An excavation uncovered medieval residences of warriors and their men, and the houses and warehouses of craftsmen and merchants. The old centre of action, the Kamakura Shogun, can be seen on the east side of the street.

The original road I built was also quite different from what you see today. The elevated walkpath stretched for 1,500 meters from Ichi no Torii, the first torii gate near Yuigahama beach, up to San no Torii, the third gate at the entrance of Hachiman-gu Shrine. It was more than three times wider at its far end near the sea, which created an optical illusion that made it appear longer than it actually was. If you look through the old records, you will find that the road was as wide as 33 meters and had moats that measured 3 meters wide and 1.5 meters deep on each side as a defense against enemy invasion.

I am proud to say that Wakamyia Oji Dori has been central to the development of the landscape of Kamakura city and is considered one of Japan's 100 most beautiful streets. Not only is it the road the devout walk along to go to the shrine, it is also lined with numerous shops that sell Kamakurabori, a local craft of carved and engraved lacquered wood. I hope you enjoyed touring our lovely street and that you will consider buying property here and building a home, a shop, a guild, or whatever your muse inspires you to create. If you need help getting started, contact one of our esteemed Orient Scribes.

Sources

  • A Brief History of Kamakura
  • A Guide to Kamakura
  • Minamoto no Yoritomo
  • Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine
  • All about Kamakurabori
  • Kamakura/Endoshima

    Images

  • Icon photo of San no Torii at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine entrance by Ironchef
    from the Flickr public domain
  • Portrait of Yoritomo, copy of the 1179 original hanging scroll, attributed to Fujiwara No Takanobu
    from the Wikipedia Commons
  • Photo of cherry blossoms by Feiyan Zhou
  • White sakura blossoms by Shanti Ashoka

    Blossoms Ding






    City-builders: Jia Li Shen Chi
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