The lad trotted up the cobbled lane. He could see a fair group had already gathered at the crossroads but he didn’t want to be out of breath when he reached them. He slowed as he approached, doffed his cap and sketched a hasty bow for the tourists.

"And a very good morning to all of you!" he says with an infectious grin. "I am Stephen Slane, one of the many products of our fine village. Welcome to our sleepy little Slane! What’s that, Ma’am? You were expecting someone older? Well, usually me Mum does the tours, but she’s down with the lumbago. Howsoever, I’ve been out on enough of these treks with her to know the route and the patter by heart. Besides, I might just drop in a few bits of my own."

"Well then! If you’re all ready, we’ll head up the road to the north. Just follow me, and watch for the sheep! Old Donal usually lets them out in the morn and brings them back in the eve. 'Smelly creatures!' you say? Well, in Eire, that’s the smell of money. A good, thick fleece might bring seventeen shillings. We’ll just be taking that gate to the left and, as we walk up its slopes, I’ll tell you the tale of how this hill came to be.

"A very long time ago, there was a Great King of a people called the Fir Bolg who lived in this area. It seems these were a warlike folk, always looking for reason to do battle with their neighbors. Well, here’s what the old Dindshenchas have to say on that:




Slaine
Whence the name? Not hard to say.
Slaine, king of the Fir Bolg, and their judge,
By him was its wood cleared from the Brugh.
Afterwards, he died at Druim Fuar,
Which is called Dumha Slaine, and was buried there
And from him the hill is named Slaine.
Hence it was said: Here died Slaine, lord of troops.

"Over him the mighty mound is reared.
So the name of Slaine was given to the hill,
Where he met his death in that chief abode.

“Now, you see that large mound at the western end of the hill? That’s where we think King Slane is buried. That’s also where the blessed St. Patrick defied King Loeghaire. On Easter eve of 457, Patrick lit a Paschal Fire upon that hill. It was also the pagan feast of Beltaine, and the only fires to be burning that night (by decree) were the ones at Tara.

"From the top of the mound, you can clearly see Tara, off to the southwest, so it was easy to see this extra beacon blazing in the night. Loeghaire immediately set off to confront the violator. When he thought to come against Patrick and his small band of disciples, the good Saint raised up a storm with thunder and lightning and hail, which scattered the militia to the four winds. Loeghaire and a few others were left behind, and some were captivated by Patrick’s faith and his way with words. Loeghaire seemed to relent and asked Patrick to come to Tara on the following day. Along the road, the king left men in ambush, as he was not about to shed his pagan ways. Realizing this, Patrick laid a blessing on all of his followers and gave them the semblance of deer. In this manner, they reached Tara in safety and found they were to contest with the druids instead of preaching to the folk gathered for Beltaine. A great battle between good and evil ensued, and Patrick came out the winner. From that time, Patrick's preaching was allowed throughout the land.

"Now, if you will turn your attention to the fine ruins behind us, you’ll be looking at what’s left of Slane Abbey and several other religious structures. What’s that, Sir? You’d like to take a walk around the other side? Please feel free. Just mind the loose stones on top the walls, They have a tendency to topple after a long winter. I’d hate to have to tell Mum that I beaned one of her good customers!

"So, back to my tale. In the early Christian times, Saint Erc established a monastery on this site. There was a medieval abbey here, but not much was written about that. In 1512, Sir Christopher Flemmyng built a small Franciscan Friary upon the ruins. A small college was built alongside the friary. The college and friary were ceded to the local government in 1540, but granted again to Sir James Flemmyng in 1543. Cromwell came along in 1640 to put an end to 'all this papish nonsense,' but the monastic way of life had pretty much gone by the wayside a hundred years earlier. The fine church was used up 'til 1723 when , it too was abandoned. Oh, I almost forgot. Sir Richard Flemmyng’s original castle was built atop the old Motte and Bailey, sometime around 1170. You can have a closer look if you wish, but there’s naught left but a few paving stones."


Now, if we’re through nosin’ about up here, please follow me and we’ll slip down for a peep at the new castle. Do you see the section of darker stone in the back corner of the structure? Well, some time back in the 15th century, the Flemmyngs decided to relocate closer to the river. We think they moved the entire Norman square tower from up on the hill to down there. That arrangement lasted for only a few hundred years. In 1701, the Flemmyngs were stripped of their lands, castle and nobility during the Williamite Confiscations. Some years later, the lands were “purchased” by the Conynghams, a noble Scots family who moved to County Donegal around 1600.. The first of the family to occupy the castle (around 1701) was Sir Albert Conyngham, a lieutenant-general who fought with William the Conqueror at the Battle of the Boyne. He was succeeded by his grandson, Henry, who also served in Parliament for over 25 years. Henry died without an heir and the property passed to his nephew, Francis Burton. Burton took the name (and Earldom) of Conyngham. In 1785, Sir William Burton Conyngham and his nephew began construction of the Castle as you now see it. The grand Georgian structure was designed and built by James Gandon, James Wyatt and Francis Johnston. The grounds and gardens were the responsibility of one Capability Brown. The Conynghams have maintained this as their primary residence, ever since.

What’s that, Mam? No, I’m afraid we won’t be able to see the insides of the Castle. His Lordship is a very private person and I don’t think he’ll be invitin’ us all in for tea and cakes.

There are two other items of interest on the castle grounds. The ancient legends tell of a miraculous well, blessed by Dian Cecht himself, which was used by the Tuatha De Danaan to cure their wounded fighters during their battle with the Fir Bolg. The other ancient landmark is Saint Erc’s Hermitage. Saint Erc was one of the attendants upon King Laoghaire, when he was first confronted by Saint Patrick. It is told that Erc was the only one to accept Christianity right off. After that first meeting, he traveled with Patrick and learned the ways of the new religion. Patrick built the first church upon the Hill, and Erc became the first Bishop of Slane.

Here we are back at the village. This is what the historians call a typical Georgian Estate Village. The entire thing was built by the Conynghams to house the local population. It all began with Slane Mill, down there on the banks of the Boyne. It was one of the largest flour mills in all of Europe when it began operation in 1767. Grain was brought by barge along the river and the milled flour left the same way. The village grew up to support the mill, the workers, the bargemen and later, travelers on both the river and the roads. Houses, inns, shops and the like, popped up all along the main road. Note the four identical houses on the corners; these were supposedly built for four Conyngham sisters who couldn’t keep their noses out of each other’s business. The story goes that the Marquis Conyngham had these built so that the four could always keep an eye on each other. In truth, the four were not all built at the same time, nor were there ever four such sisters. The first to be erected was an Inn on the northwest corner. The property on the northeast corner was given to one Henry Fisher with the stipulation that a house be built there within five years, conforming to the design of the adjacent building. Over the next several years, matching buildings were erected on the two southern corners and a fine fountain was placed in the middle of the square.

Another landmark in the village is the Conyngham Arms. Originally, this was the hunting lodge of the Viscount Conyngham, and is believed to predate the four corner houses by a good many years. Today, it is operated as a combination hotel and restaurant. The food in The Gamekeepers Lodge is excellent. Since this is the end of our tour, might I suggest you take your ease in that fine establishment before your return to Dublin. I thank you all for visiting Slane and hope you can come again sometime.