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Hangzhou's District of
Xi Hu
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The West Lake was not only the premier recreational spot of Hangzhou,
but an important part of the economy and the main supply of fresh water.

"Rippling water shimmering on a sunny day,
Misty mountains shrouded in the rain;
Plain or gaily decked out like Xizi;
West Lake is always alluring."

Small Dingbat
T hese are the words composed by the famous Song dynasty poet, and native of Hangzhou, Su Dongpo. The lake was thought to be the incarnation of Xi Zi, one of the legendary Four Beauties of China. So lovely was she, that it was reported that the fish dipped their heads in shame when she washed her clothes in the river. The West Lake has traditionally been associated with poets and philosophers, and was the backdrop in many tales of heroes and heroines. When the Southern Song dynasty was at its height, the lake was a refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city and a place for quiet contemplation. Surrounding the lake were all manner of pavilions and teahouses, serving the famous Xi Hu Longjing tea, which is grown on the slopes above the lake. It is still highly prized to this day.

During the Tang dynasty (785-804), the poet Bai Juyi was appointed governor or prefect of Hangzhou. During previous administrations the West Lake had been neglected and its dike had collapsed, causing the water level to sink to a point where the lake was nearly dried up, which caused the local farmers to suffer drought conditions. Realizing the importance of this body of water, Bai Juyi instigated the rebuilding of the dike, along with a dam to control the water flow. With the improvements to the water supply and to the system of irrigation, the economic welfare of the inhabitants rose. Bai Juyi ordered a causeway, later named in his honor, to be built connecting the Broken Bridge with the Solitary Hill so that people could walk across portions of the lake instead of having to take a boat. He had peach and willow trees planted to enhance the beauty of the surroundings.

Su Dongpo was named governor of Hangzhou in the early years of the Song dynasty's Yuanyou era (1086-1094). Invasive weeds growing in the lake bed had clogged the irrigation outlets which Su Dongpo dealt with by having the lake bottom dredged. He had the resulting mud piled into another causeway, almost three times as long as his predecessor's, and planted it with willow trees. The Su causeway is 2.6 (1.62 statute miles) long and boasts six bridges along its length. By the late 13th century, the West Lake was nine feet deep and its circumference had grown to over nine miles.

The West Lake supplied fresh clean drinking water to Hangzhou, as the river water was tidal and brackish. The Six Wells to the northwest of the city were connected to the lake by earthenware conduits, first constructed in the eighth century and repaired and improved in the eleventh. It is thought that water was distributed throughout the city by pole-porters. Much care was taken to keep the lake clean, as they realized the threat of disease from impure water. It was against the law to throw trash into the lake, or to plant invasive species such as lotus or water chestnuts. Every structure had to be approved, so that nothing would disrupt the harmony of the view. Military patrols were appointed to police and maintain the lake, and two high officials were even taken to court in the late eleventh century, accused of having built houses on pilings out over the water and of washing themselves and their laundry in the lake.

Despite the rules and patrols, people were able to enjoy the West Lake. Available for hire were pleasure boats and barges which could carry from two to more than twenty people. Some of these boats were equipped with an area for patrons to play darts and ball games aboard. Smaller boats carried singing girls for the entertainment of the excursioners. Wealthy families had their own boats, and the Emperor himself kept his private boats in the Little Lake, a section divided from the public part of West Lake by a small dike.

Commerce also played an important part life on the lake with merchants carrying their cargoes from north to south. Most anything could be had from these intrepid captains - vegetables, fruit, chickens, shellfish, flowers, wines, soups, and sweetmeats. Fishermen also plied their trade from the shore and from boats.

While there are myriad spots of beauty along the West Lake, there are ten special views known as the Ten Scenes of West Lake, each with a poetic name such as "Orioles Singing in the Willows" and "Three Pools Mirroring the Moon". Each location is noted with a stela engraved with a four character epithet written by the Qianlong Emperor (1735-1796).

Today, a person can walk the circumference of the lake in about four hours, or shorten the walk by using the causeways and numerous bridges. It is a shimmering jewel in the heart of Hangzhou. It is no wonder that people say, "There is a paradise in Heaven and Hangzhou and Suzhou on earth." While you are visiting the West Lake, please stop by one of the teahouses and enjoy some of the best hospitality in all of China!


Resources

  • Wikipedia: West Lake
    Gernet, Jacques. Daily Life in China on the Eve of the Mongol Invasion, Stanford University Press, 1970.









  • The Articles of Xi Hu:
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    Xi Hu Longjing Tea Plantations Dec 4, 2008
    For All the Tea In China Dec 4, 2008
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