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Lough Derg
Associated to Place: AncientWorlds > Celtia > Eire > Ulster > articles -- by * Flidais Niafer (27 Articles), Social Article 1 Featured November 23 , 2007
There are two lakes named Lough Derg in Ireland. This one is in Ulster. The other is in Munster, on the River Shannon.
loughderg.jpg
The Colloquy of the Ancients has the name of Lough Derg originating from the blood of the last great serpent which St. Patrick slew there. (dearg=red) Other interpretations read Derg as the Irish word "deirc" which makes Lough Dearg the Lake of the Cave. Lough Derg has been the shrine of pilgrimages since the fifth century, as it became known as the place where St. Patrick entered Purgatory through the cave on Station Island. The cave was the main destination of pilgrims until 1780 when it was replaced by a chapel.

One of the earliest accounts is by Giraldus Cambrensis "Topography of Ireland" (1186) describes what is today called Station Island as "an Island, one part of which is frequented by good spirits, the other by evil spirits."

"There is a lake in Ulster containing an island divided into 2 parts. In one of these stands a church of especial sanctity, and it is most agreeable and delightful as well as beyond measure glorious for the visitation of angels and the multitude of the saints who visibly frequent it. The other part, being covered with rugged crags, is reported to be the resort of devils only, and to be almost always the theatre on which crowds of evil spirits visibly perform their rites. This part of the island contains nine pits, and should anyone perchance venture to spend the night in one of them (which has been done, we know, at times, by some rash men) he is immediately seized by the malignant spirits, who so severely torment him during the whole night, inflicting upon him such unutterable sufferings by fire and water, and other torments of various kinds, that when comes scarcely any spark of life is found left in his wretched body."

Scholars now say that St. Patrick never referred to Lough Derg in his writings, never visited the lake, and was not at all connected with this until several centuries after his death. This shows that myth can be more important than history. What makes a site sacred? Having reached Lough Derg, one may simply find the sanctity within one's own heart. By the eighth century, a group of hermits had settled on Lough Derg - although they knew nothing of the St Patrick Purgatory legend. The nine pits mentioned in Giraldus' account were eventually turned into the "beds" of various saints which can still be seen today.

It is likely that Lough Dearg was a pagan holy place long before the Christians made it a pilgrim's shrine. The symbol of a dragon or serpent is often interpreted as "earth energies" or the pre-Christian religions. If we go back to the time before St. Patrick symbolically slew the "last great serpent" and turned the lake red with its blood, we find local folklore that tells of a female dragon or serpent who inhabited the cave, as well as some old tales of goddess lore. Caves were used as places of spiritual seclusion, rites of death and rebirth, and passageways to the otherworld long before St. Patrick's era, so it is safe to assume that this site - like many others in Ireland - has a mysterious and sacred history that goes back too far for anyone to remember. The very fact that Giraldus describes the island as having two distinct parts may be a remnant of the times when the legend of St. Patrick first confronted the resident dragon of Lough Derg.

By the way, there are two Lough Dergs in Ireland, so be careful when looking for information on this place. The other one is on the River Shannon at the boundary of Counties Tipperary, Galway, and Clare.

Here are a few poetic quotes on Lough Derg.

Shakespeare's Hamlet

In reference to the appearance of his father’s unquiet spirit.
‘Yes, by St. Patrick!
Touching his vision here,
It is an honest ghost, that let me tell you.



Caxton- Mirror of the World (1480)

In reference to the extraordinary tales from the pilgrimage

‘an high Canon of Waterford, which told me, hath been therin 5 or 6 times. And he saw nor suffered no such things. He saith that with procession, the religious men that be there bring him into the Hole and shut the door after him….And there he was all night in contemplation and prayer and also slept there; and on the morn he came out again…And other thing he saw not’



Donnchath Mór ó Dálaigh (@1244) Truagh mo thuras ar Loch Dearg

Truagh mo thuras ar loch dearg
a Rí na gceall is na gclog
do chaoineadh do chneadh’s do
chréacht
’s nach faghaim déar thar mo rosg.

Sad is my pilgrimage to Lough Derg,
O King of the cells and bells;
I came to mourn your sufferings and wounds,
But no tear will cross my eye.’



Seamus Heaney- Station Island

How well I know that fountain, filling,
running,
although it is the night.
That eternal fountain, hidden away,
I know its haven and its secrecy
although it is the night.
But not its source because it does not have
one,
which is all sources’ source and origin
although it is the night…
I know no sounding-line can find its bottom,
nobody ford or plumb its deepest fathom
although it is the night
And its current so in flood it overspills
to water hell and heaven all peoples
although it is the night.
And the current that is generated there,
as far as it wills to, it can flow that far
although it is the night



Patrick Kavanagh

Lough Derg, St. Patrick’s Purgatory in Donegal,
Christendom’s purge. Heretical
Around the edges: the centre’s hard
As the commonplace of a flamboyant bard.
The twentieth century blows across it now
But deeply it has kept an ancient vow.



WB Yeats (The Pilgrim)

I fasted for some forty days on bread and butermilk,
For passing round the bottle with girls in rags or silk,
In country shawl or Paris cloak, had put my wits astray,
And what's good of women, for all that they can say 'Is fol de rol de rolly O.'

Round Lough Derg's holy island I went upon the stones,
I prayed at all the Stations upon my matrow-bones,
And there I found an old man beside me, nothing would he say
'But fol de rol de rolly O.'



Flidais Niafer - On Lough Derg

Blue sky, blue water,
Red blood of the dragon's daughter,
Slain? or merely gone from sight?
Go deep and you may find her.

The last great serpent Patrick slew
She bleeds for me, she bleeds for you
Saints? or old gods demonized?
Go deep and know what's true.

Black cave, white chapel,
Good and evil talons grapple,
Hell? or pilgrim's paradise?
Go deep and taste the apple.

Underwater, under skin,
Baptismal rites and tattooed sin
Salvation? or a heathen's pride?
Go deep and look within.





Image of Lough Derg from http://www.loughderg.org/
Courtyard
Posted Nov 20, 2007 - 09:43 , Last Edited: Nov 23, 2007 - 13:25











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